Sourdough Currant Scones

A love letter, in baking form, to my daughters and the British Isles

2024 is off to a galloping start. I’ve been laminating everything in sight and have a nice croissant recipe to show for it (coming soon). Also, I’m well into plans to produce an audio companion to the newsletter. That’s right, a podcast! In the coming weeks you’ll be able to listen to some behind-the-scenes, and between-the-lines, Sassafras Curio content wherever you stream your podcasts: I’ll dig into the recipes with tips, advice, conversation, and stories that don’t make it onto the page. Stay tuned for that. But for now, let’s make scones. This ode to the British Isles combines pan-toasted oats, butter, cream, currants, and sourdough starter. Put a kettle on.

I’m a biscuit lover by nature. Nothing says “I care” more than golden, flaky rounds pulled hot from the oven as folks sit for supper. They are the first recipe in my book, placed so as to confirm their status in my world of baked goods and memory. 

Knowing this, it will make sense that when it comes to scones, I look for biscuity attributes. Firm, but buttery. Barely sweet, with as much dried fruit as flour. If I serve them with a cup of black tea or coffee, they are more than a meal, they are love itself, on a plate.

As we enter the new semester, my college kids are on my mind. My oldest is studying abroad in Scotland and sending pictures of castles, and fells. My middle is at school in Boston and getting to know that city and its winding streets. Our nest is quiet. All of this, combined with how much I miss them, has me trying to bake a connection that combines these ingredients. 

And so, a scone: Old Boston, cobbled Edinburgh, toasted oats, yellow butter, and currants. Stir together, bake to craggy, golden hues, and blow a kiss from far away.

To my daughters, you’re on my mind, always. We miss you. 

Love,

Daddy, Mama, and Arlo

Sourdough Currant Scones

Yield: Eight scones

Oats, old fashioned or “thick”, 70g (about ¾ cup)

Over medium heat, toast the oats in a hot dry pan, stirring occasionally, until golden and fragrant, about 5-7 minutes. Place in a bowl and chill until use. 

All purpose flour, 130g
Whole wheat flour, 50g
Salt, fine, 5g (¾ teaspoon)
Baking powder, 5.5g (1 ½ teaspoons)
Baking soda, 2.5g (½ teaspoon)

In a large bowl combine everything and stir until homogenous. Chill until use.

Butter, unsalted, cold, 113g (8 tablespoons)

Cut the butter into pats (¼” slices) then add to the dry ingredients, tossing to combine. Working with your fingers, press the butter into flat “leaves.” Some bits will disintegrate and make the flour look like cornmeal. Other pieces will remain larger. That’s perfect. 

Add the chilled oats to the dry ingredients and butter and toss to combine. 

Currants, dried, 175g (minced raisins, or cranberries are ok, too)

Add the currents to the butter and dry ingredients, tossing to distribute. 

Honey, 30g (2 T)
Heavy cream or whole milk, 100g
Sourdough starter*, 170g (This is a liquid consistency starter, fed with equal parts flour and water. Day old or discard is ok. To make starter specifically for the scones, combine 20g of starter with 75g of flour and 75g of water then ripen for 8 to 24 hours.)

In a small bowl whisk together the starter, heavy cream, and honey, mixing until smooth and homogenous. Note that the ripeness of the starter will have an effect on the scones. A very ripe starter (in the “discard” range, flowing, with no real structure) will more easily combine with the cream, whereas a younger starter will take more stirring. The important thing is to whisk or stir until homogenous. Note also that a younger starter will impart a less “bready,” or fermented flavor. Both are delicious.

Add the liquids to the dry and stir with a spatula until combined and homogenous. Try not to overwork the dough but do stir, then press and fold to incorporate any dry bits until none remain.

Dump the mixture onto a lightly floured surface and pat to flatten, then fold once or twice, if necessary, before forming into a rectangle roughly 8” long, 5” wide, and 1 ⅜” inches high. For the most precise shapes, make sure that the edges are square. Freeze for 15 minutes. 

While the dough chills in the freezer, preheat your oven to 425°F (or 400°F convection if you have it).

When the oven is fully preheated and the scones are chilled, cut them into 8 even pieces using a sharp knife. Brush with heavy cream. Garnish with coarse sugar or demerara and bake until golden on top and bottom, about 15 to 20 minutes. Some ovens will color the scones more quickly than others, if they are taking color too soon, turn the oven down to 400°F. My oven tends to run cool, I bake the full 20 minutes in order to get the color shown, above.