Breakfast song

Crispiest sourdough waffles

Hi friends. This week, with family home and holidays all around us, I’m thinking about gatherings — the times, ways, and places where we are together. Whether butter biscuits, fresh scones, hoecakes, or these crispiest sourdough waffles (recipe below), I hope you find a moment in the coming days and weeks to sing sweet songs with extra syrup. — Martin

Dish towel on my shoulder, spatula in hand, I walk to the base of the steps. “Breeeakfast!,” I yell, bouncing a vocal bank shot off the stairwell and hallway doors.

I wait. I perk up my ears to sense a bed spring creak or the bump of a foot on the floor. Nothing.

Take two: a deep breath -- my ribs expand, my jaw opens -- and, as though singing over an orchestra, projecting all the way to the cheap seats in the rafters, I call: “Breeeeeeeeeeeeakfast!!!” The ring wakes a banjo on the wall. “IIIIIIIIIIII want breakfast!,” it hums, in C modal tuning.

This is my Sunday song. In a work week bent to fit busy days, early starts, and school schedules, it’s one of few mornings with time for singing. So, on Sunday, to the accompaniment of steam kettle and sputtering pancakes, I holler wake-up songs.

People with children, pets, or just plain busy lives recognize the operatic potential of morning routines. During the week, as characters descend and enter the kitchen, they play the jester, dramatic heroine, or she-warrioress, depending on the day. Sleepy greetings beget ensembles and action erupts on musical themes: "Do you have track todayyyyyyyyyy?" "I haven't seeeeeeeeeeeeen your pants," or, "Pass the syyyyyyyyyyyrup!!!!!????" Scenas and arias, full cadenzas and high-note finales -- all options as tea is poured, pancakes are plated, and clocks tick toward departure deadlines.

With one child off to college, our remaining children are 14, and 18. As a family unit with long school days, commitments, and more college departures right around the corner, our time together seems scarce, at best. I remember the oft-given advice: “Enjoy it, it goes by so quickly!” My response in the early years, while pushing a stroller on two hours of sleep, was something like, “God, I hope so.” As is the case with many lessons, here I am, almost ready to pass along the same advice.

But, amid the rushing around, sword fights, triumphal marches, and lamentations, we find moments to pause. And when we do, food is where we huddle. Some mornings it’s French toast, or grits with milk and maple syrup. On holidays or weekends it might be sourdough waffles or biscuits.

As the kids have grown I do feel some sadness over the lessening of purpose in our roles. My wife and I have lost our jobs as Director, Costumer, Vocal Coach, and Fight Choreographer. But, I also realize that there are other parts to play as we move on to the longest job we’ll ever have. We are the audience. We watch. We clap, and cheer. We holler “Brava!” or, “Encore!” We cry at the sad parts, we celebrate with the good. We make waffles. And we wait for the next Act to start.

Crispiest sourdough waffles

These follow delicious ratios similar to the pancakes in my book but they are transformed through sourdough fermentation, waffle iron magic, and whipped egg whites. The sourdough is built and ripens overnight (or, fed in the morning for a waffle dinner). I’m not much for superlatives, but these are the best damn waffles I’ve ever eaten. A claim which has been corroborated by the full cast of characters here.

Sourdough culture, 75g, (about 6 tablespoons)
Water, lukewarm, 200g, (¾ cup plus ⅛ cup)
All-purpose flour, 200g, (1 ⅔ cups)

Build the sourdough (liquid levain). *8 to 24 hours before you want waffles.*
In a large mixing bowl combine the lukewarm water and sourdough culture, whisking until the culture is fully dispersed. Add the flour and continue whisking until the mixture is homogeneous. Cover tightly and place in a warm spot. When ripe and ready the sourdough should show activity with tiny bubbles and small crevasses covering the surface. (If you don’t have sourdough culture, it’s ok. Substitute with a ¾ teaspoon (about 2g) of instant yeast and follow the exact same method as the sourdough version.)

Milk or buttermilk, 175g, (¾ cup)
Egg yolks, 36g, (2 yolks)
Butter, melted, 28g, (2 tablespoons)

To the sourdough mixture add the milk, egg yolks (white come later!), and butter, whisking until homogenous. It may take a moment for the mixture to incorporate, keep whisking until smooth. Note that even once it’s homogenous it will still seem viscous. During the next stage it will become more flowable.

Whole wheat flour, 30g, (¼ cup). Note that rye flour, spelt, buckwheat, or even cornmeal will work. A coarse whole wheat like Irish Wholemeal is a great choice.
Sugar, granulated, 26g, (2 tablespoons)
Baking powder, 2g, (½ teaspoon)
Baking soda, 2g, (½ teaspoon)
Salt, 9g, (1 ½ teaspoons)

In a separate small bowl combine the wheat flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Stir to combine then whisk into the wet ingredients until homogenous.

Egg whites, 64g, (2 whites)

In a large bowl whisk the egg whites to medium-stiff peaks. They are ready when they cling to the whisk and form peaks which hold their shape.

Fold or gently whisk the whites into the batter, stirring until combined but not deflated. This works best if done in two to three stages.

Once combined, set the batter to rest while the waffle iron preheats.

To cook, add an amount appropriate to your iron and cook until no light spots remain. In my old proctor-silex model (ca. 1994), a wet ¾ cup measure is the perfect portion. When adding the batter, do your best to distribute it evenly.

Read this part: For maximum crispness these should bake until truly golden brown. In the cooking process they need to lose maximum moisture in order to have the almost fried consistency.

At our house we tend to eat in stages while they are still hot and holding maximum crispness. (“Arlo are you ready for more?” and so forth.) If you like to have everything at once, I recommend placing a cooling tray atop a sheet tray in a warm oven (250F or so) and holding them there until you’re ready.

For serving suggestions, all the obvious choices are divine but butter and maple syrup take the day. Whole milk yogurt with fresh fruit (and syrup!) or fun savory twists are also options. We’ve never had enough left to get too creative.